First timer's guide to Lebanon

Lebanon is one of the smallest countries you can visit. It is so small that you can see all ends of the country in a few days. It is however full of attractions, so please do not underestimate its small distances. The truth to be told, the main reason your trip could be slowed down is the traffic. I only have one word for it: crazy! Put this aside and you will find yourself in a quite beautiful country with kind people and flavourful food.

Mindful moment:We travel for many reasons, each of us has his/her own drive for traveling. Some travel to see beautiful landscapes, some to come back with tons of photos and others to meet people or learn abut history. These are just a few examples. To travel to Lebanon you can find many reasons, but one of the most significant ones might be its recent history. It is not only about the facts, but mostly about the people. When you travel around Lebanon you can frequently see traces of the not-so- far past. I’d like to encourage you to think about it, reflect on it, think of the worst that happened to you…and then find ten reasons to be grateful for.

Is Lebanon safe?

Before moving to the Middle East I did not consider travelling to Lebanon and to be honest with you, I did not know much about this country. For the last year, I heard lots of mixed opinions regarding travelling to Lebanon. As much as everyone agreed Lebanon is stunning, many advised not to go. Others said to at least have a contact in the country in case of unexpected issues since the situation in the country might easily change. Yes, it’s true that you can find tanks and armed soldiers on the streets and occasional checkups. I understand it might make tourists feel a bit unsettled, especially that many government websites warn travellers against visiting Lebanon, too.

I did not feel unsafe in Lebanon at all (maybe only while in the car fearing for my life surrounded by crazy drivers). The war ended long ago in Lebanon, the people are welcoming and helpful and Lebanon is an absolutely incredible!

Visas for Lebanon

Most nationalities can easily get 1 month, cost-free visa on arrival. I have an EU passport and after filling up a small form, I got a stamp in my passport without being asked for any explanations. However, if you have an Israeli stamp on your passport, you will be likely denied entry. An officer dealing with me went through my passport page by page, I guess looking for a said stamp.

What places to avoid?

For obvious reasons, some areas near Syrian and Israeli borders are considered higher risk and travellers are advised to avoid them. As you can see on the map we visited Cedars of God and from there, there is only a short way through the mountains to get to Baalbek. Many locals advised us not to take this road since the situation in this area is unstable, we went there through Beirut. While the region of Baalbek is safe, many people warned us not to go there when it’s dark.

What places to see

Beirut

When I think of Beirut, one word pops into my head: nightlife. It is not a big city to stay longer than a weekend (although I’m sure you could), but if you are interested in dancing till sunrise and having the best time of your life…one weekend might not be enough. Beirut is a lovely city for food and great restaurant, cute coffee places and trendy bars. It is also easily accessible from Europe and Middle East at a short flight away. Qatar Airways frequently has great offers on flights, so you should definitely check them out.

After a weekend full of excitement and fun, we headed north. The trip was planned to first visit Byblos and the areas around it, then Beit ed-Dine and Baalbeck and go to Tyre (Sur) before getting back to Beirut for the last weekend. This is the route we did with major stops marked.

Byblos

Byblos is one of the most known and prettiest cities in Lebanon. It was for us a touring base for a couple of days as we did not want to go back and forth from Beirut. Driving for so many hours is tiring if you don’t hire a driver. There are many interesting places around Byblos, so I would recommend at least two days in the area or a full-length tour day with a private tour or driver. There are many options out there, but I think this tour is really worth taking as it covers more or less all the places we visited.

Where to go from Byblos:

IXSIR winery. A charming place with amazing food…and those desserts!
Batroun. This is a charming coastal village with a beautiful church overlooking the sea and a Phoenician wall.
Cedars of God. Our expectations were huge and we were quite excited to see
Our Lady of Lebanon- Harissa. It is one of the most important religious places in Lebanon. A big statue of Our Lady of Lebanon overlooks the coast from a hill. If the weather is good, you can get there by cable train.
Douma village
Jeita Grotto. It was hands down one of the most incredible places to see in the Middle East. Walking inside the cave is like being inside a magic fairy tale world. (Entry fee 12000 LBP or 7,5 Euro or 8$; cash only; there’s also a parking fee 2200 LBP).
Bsharri
Gibran Museum

Chauf area

This area is very green and hilly. I quite liked staying there for a few days. It was quieter than in other places and it made a perfect base for day tours. We stayed in Bouyouti Hotel near Moussa Castle.

Moussa Castle. I don’t really know how to describe this place. Eccentric might be the word. We drove past it multiple times, but never it cross our minds that this castle is one of the most visited places by visitors, mostly local people. We searched for Moussa Castle and when Google maps took us there, we thought it was a mistake…it cannot be a building that looks like a fake castle built recently. Well…it was. The story behind it is full of dreams and determination. The idea of building a medieval-like castle was born in the head of a little boy, who spend all his adulthood constructing this building and everything inside it piece by piece until his recent death. (Entry fee 15000).
Beiteddine Palace. This 19th-century palace is definitely worth visiting. If you travel there in Summer you might be lucky to attend an annual summer festival that the palace hosts. During the festival, there are various concerts from classical music, jazz, opera, dance or theatre or pop.
Deir El Qamar. This town has a really pretty name, it translates as Monastery of the Moon. It is also a UNESCO heritage place.

Cedars Reserves

The cedar forest in this part of Lebanon is the biggest in the country. There are a few entrances to the reserve and I went to parts of the forest: El Chauf and Barouk (entry fee 7000). El Chauf is the biggest and you can enter and explore it by car. It closes at 5 pm, so you need to exit on time, otherwise, the road is going to be shut. You can also enter walking along the road. A view from there is beautiful. I personally preferred Barouk though. It is much smaller, but you can walk in a proper forest and see up close the oldest cedar tree.

Baalbek

Baalbek was probably my favourite in the whole of Lebanon. It is quite a drive to get there and the closer you get to the Syrian border the more soldiers and security is there. Nearly the whole way from Beirut seems that there is no empty spaces as all the villages were kind of connected. At times the roads were really congested and hectic. It is, however, worth the drive as the Roman ruins in Baalbek are incredible! Apparently, these are the biggest Roman ruins in the world.

The best way to get to Baalbek is to take Beirut- Damascus highway (it’s a highway only by name), pay attention once you get to Chtura, where you need to take a left turn. If you miss it, you will head straight to the Syrian border.

Baalbek Roman ruins

Tyre (Sur)

Tyre is a Mediterranean port town with an old souq, a charming old town, a beautiful beach nearby and places to eat with lovely sea views. The biggest reason to head this way is to visit Sidon on the way and try some delicious seafood in Tyre.

Where to stay:

I spent ten days in Lebanon while staying in Beirut over weekends (for obvious nightlife reasons) and the rest of the time I split between Byblos and Beit ed-Dine area. I originally thought of staying in more places to skip driving too much, however, I was advised by some Lebanese friends to limit the number of hotels.

Beirut:

O Monot Boutique Hotel– this is a charming boutique hotel right in the middle of all attractions. It is a perfect place surrounded by many cool restaurants, bars and clubs and all the most important attractions are within walking distance.

Beit ed-Dine:

Bouyouti Hotel- it is one of the nicest places to stay. I went there in April, which is still a rather cold month and the hotel was empty. It is a big green area in the middle of a forest with individual stone or wooden cabins. It has a couple of swimming pools and the cottages are so charming and cute, that you won’t like to leave.

Byblos (Jbeil):

Aleph Boutique Hotel– Out of many options in Byblos, this hotel had a perfect location as it is just a couple of minutes walking from the old souq and castle.

Driving in Lebanon:

Well…I don’t know how to tell you this, guys, but for driving in Lebanon you need to equip yourself with lots of patience, strong nerves and eyes around your head. It’s not only that the cities are busy and packed with cars, but mostly because of the driving rules. There are non-existent. I mean…every driver does whatever he or she pleases. Going against the traffic on the highway? Why not? Two lines going in each direction? Why not make it 4? It was really an experience.

So, while you are in Lebanon you have two best options for discovering the country: hire a driver/ tour and rent a car. Renting a car is definitely cheaper and gives you more flexibility, but I would not recommend it if you are not a confident driver or even if you are, but want to save the adrenaline-raising for another occasion. Hiring a driver is easy in Lebanon at affordable prices. You can ask in your hotel or search on Viator, they have plenty of offers.